Heat butter or oil in a large skillet or saucepan over medium-high heat. Once shimmering (oil) or melted (butter) add the onions and cook until nearly translucent, but not browned (should be less than 5 minutes).
Add rice and ramp bulbs, stirring to ensure the rice is coated in the butter/oil. Add the wine if using (use stock if not) and continue to stir until the wine/stock has cooked off and the rice begins to look almost dry (but don’t let it get totally dry or it will burn).
Add half cup of the stock to the pot, stirring until it has absorbed, and then add a half a cup more. Continue this process until all the stock is used and the rice is al dente. This should take roughly 20 minutes. Add the chopped ramp leaves and then the cheese. Add salt and pepper to taste, and for added allium allure, sprinkle with some chopped chives before serving.